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When assembling a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate renowned high-end establishments. However, tucked near the top among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung corner of north London.

An Shocking Recognition

This little Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. The accolade has made the family totally shocked.

“I am utterly astonished,” remarks the proprietor, alluding to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their small restaurant earning such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

This compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has maintained much of its original charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the food, and this eatery more than excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent quality.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, toastier and more balanced profile.

Surpassing the Stars

Remarkably, this modest spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

A Ethos of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am truly proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is set to echo beyond its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this culinary triumph.